SIGIRIYA SRI LANKA

See Sigiriya and learn Sigiriya

It is a tale of treachery and deceit, love and hate, triumph and disaster that has fascinated people down the ages. It is also a tale of craftsmanship and sensuous art, the legacy of which still holds people in awe, more than 15 centuries later.

All about Sigiriya and more will now be available to “discerning” tourists, both local and foreign, at the state-of-the-art Sigiriya Museum and Information Centre -- having as its backdrop the formidable rock fortress – to be opened shortly.

Many are familiar with the Kasyapan period (477-495 AC), when King Kasyapa, after murdering his father King Dhatusena made his home at Sigiriya, creating a different image of this forbidding rock outcrop, starting with a passage leading through the lion’s paws and encompassing the lion staircase, the mirror wall, the beautiful apsaras, the water gardens, moated palaces, boulder gardens, terrace gardens et al.

But what of the pre- and post-Kasyapa period, asks Central Cultural Fund (CCF) Director-General Prof. Sudarshan Seneviratne, explaining its many-layered history.

Sigiriya, in addition to being a World Heritage Site, is also one of the very few large secular sites with an unbroken history from 5,000 BC to contemporary periods. It depicts a “microcosm” of the cultural and technological phases of Sri Lanka, he says.

The museum represents all these facets in their totality, he adds, explaining that the concept was conceived by the first Director of the Sigiriya Project, Prof. Senake Bandaranayake who later took up the mantle of CCF D-G, assisted by various eminent scholars. The concept was translated into the material structure by Architect Chandana Ellepola, while the internal design was handled by Japanese experts who were advised by a team of Sri Lankan specialists.

Picking out one of many factors which make this museum unique, Prof. Seneviratne says it is the first with facilities for the differently-abled.

While the whole area is naturally landscaped to blend with the environment, the location is scenic, built on the Yan Oya, with most of the trees branching skyward through the museum and streams winding through it giving out a merry tinkling tone. “This is in keeping with the ability of the ancient builders who not only laid out the garden elements in a grid pattern but also embraced organic beauty and asymmetry, moulding their building on to boulders although they had sufficient engineering knowledge to remove them,” he says.

All important features of Sigiriya such as the frescoes, spiral staircase and bubble fountain have been replicated, The Sunday Times understands. “This is a bonus for anyone who cannot scale the rock,” says the DG.

The spiral staircase is made to the same scale as the actual one, giving a true picture while the “objects gallery” for sculpture, coins, graffiti writing will exhibit some beautiful pieces, pride of place being given to the intricately carved single ear ornament found at the site and believed to have been worn by a Sigiriya maiden.

Even the biodiversity and the important archaeological monuments around the rock fortress such as the pre-historic Megalithic burials at Ibbankatuwa will be represented, says Prof. Seneviratne adding that another unique exhibit will be the partially-conserved original furnace used for steel-making with tuyeres and all, brought from Alakolawewa, a vast iron smelting site in the olden days, close to Sigiriya.

Some of the exhibits including the burials, the landscaped presentation of Sigiriya as also the backdrop of the rock and authentic imitation of the fresco pocket were turned out in Japan, explains the DG, adding that it was like a “giant jigsaw puzzle” with the pieces being brought down and carefully assembled in Sri Lanka.

Explaining that it is difficult to pinpoint all the extraordinary features of the museum, he says that the Chulavamsa section on the Kaspaya legend has been engraved on a glass panel near the amphitheatre which doubles up as a performance balcony.

Another lure for the tourist will be the “visitor approachable” conservation laboratory, while additional attractions will be a library and archival facility, an information centre run by the Tourism Ministry, internet facilities, a sales outlet for authentic replicas from Bataleeiya and a restaurant. “The museum will be an ideal research centre for archaeologists and conservators,” he says.

The centerpiece, according to Prof. Seneviratne, is the glass-topped model of Sigiriya with water gardens and all, giving a bird’s eye view of its grandeur.

About the museum

The Sigiriya Museum and Information Centre has been funded by Japan, through JICA, under its Project for the Development of Culture-oriented Tourism (COT) which hopes to promote nature-culture-traditional lives. The funds were channelled through the Ministry of Cultural Affairs and National Heritage and the project executed by the CCF.

The museum was a long felt need to attract the up-end tourist market, local as well as foreign, stressed CCF DG Prof. Seneviratne. “These tourists look beyond simplistic information or just visiting a site and moving on.”

There are a few such museums scattered across the country, in addition to the National Museum in Colombo, The Sunday Times understands. These include the Polonnaruwa museum funded by the Netherlands and the Abhayagiriya Museum in Anuradhapura funded by the Chinese. The Marine Archaeology Museum including a marine biology section located in the Warehouse in Galle and funded by the Netherlands is due to be opened soon.

“We are looking beyond the tourists who come for a quickie three-hour jaunt,” said the DG, explaining that they are attempting to lure the tourists at least to stay a night at this World Heritage Site.That’s why the CCF wanted to offer something more than the site, surveys having shown that a lesser percentage of tourists come for the beach but more come in search of nature, herbal treatment and heritage.

Sigiriya offers the full “ensemble”, stresses Prof. Seneviratne, pointing out that Sigiriya is a World Heritage Site along with beautiful and scenic archaeological sites around it as well and is located on a protected nature reserve, with an abundance of fauna and flora while traditional communities such as chena farmers, cattle-herders and potters still live around it. The primary stakeholders of all this are the local community who will also be able to “show off” their skills in their own settings.

The logistical advantages are many as well, The Sunday Times learns, with Sigiriya being centrally located, offering short excursions to Ritigala, Dambulla, the rose-quartz hill at Namal Uyana, Avukana and Kala Wewa and other natural attractions such as lakes and rock outcrops as well as wildlife resorts.

Its history

Period 1: Prehistory – Prehistoric humans are believed to have lived at Sigiriya between 10,000 and 20,000 years ago.Period 2: Proto-history, between 1,000 and 300 BC, when village settlements began along with irrigation and the production and use of iron.Period 3: Early monastic, from about the 3rd to 1st century BC marking the establishment of early Buddhist monks’ settlements around rock-shelter residences.Period 4: Pre-Kasyapa between the 1st and 5th centuries AC. Development of large-scale iron production and construction of fortified Mapalagala complex, with ‘cyclopean’ walls and terraces, south of Sigiriya rock.Period 5: Kasyapa I from 477-495 AC.Periods 6 & 7: Later monastic A & B from 6th to 10th century, with the setting up of a new Buddhist monastery in the western sector and the Boulder Garden area in the early part.Period 8: Polonnaruwa Period – From 11th to 13th century, rise of Polonnaruwa and decline of monastery construction at Sigiriya.Period 9: Abandonment from the late 13th to the 17th century, with rural settlements surviving but no urban and monastic activity.Period 10: Sigiriya appears to have been an outer province of the Kandyan kingdom.Period 11: Antiquarian interest when in the 19th century Sigiriya seems to have “recovered”.Period 12: Modern recovery when in 1894, archaeological investigation, restoration and conservation by the Archaeological Department begins.

(Extracted from ‘Sigiriya’ by Senake Bandaranayake)

Sigiriya sound and light show off/on

Shot down once but resurrected again – plans for a “sound and light show” at the 5th century Sigiriya rock fortress, a World Heritage Site, are not only drawing howls of protests from archaeologists but also from environmentalists.

While a Cultural Ministry proposal for these shows has been given Cabinet approval, questions are being raised in cultural circles whether the Sri Lankan authorities have informed the UNESCO World Heritage Centre in Paris about it.

It is obligatory on the part of the state party, in this instance the Cultural Affairs Ministry, to inform the Centre what it plans for the World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, as that is the body which administers the World Heritage Convention, The Sunday Times understands.

Sigiriya, the most-visited site in the Cultural Triangle, comes under the ministry’s Department of Archaeology and is managed by the Central Cultural Fund (CCF).

Serious concerns have been raised whether such plans which may impact adversely on Sigiriya would act as an obstacle in the nomination of Seruwila as a World Heritage Site as UNESCO would be looking into Sri Lanka’s record.

“There is tourism pressure during the day on Sigiriya which has some impact on the rock fortress but a sound and light show in the night would certainly add much more pressure which could damage it,” a source told The Sunday Times, stressing that Sri Lanka could not afford to create a “bad impression” with regard to its management of World Heritage Sites. “It must not seem as if the country is killing the goose, in this case Sigiriya, which is laying the golden eggs,” the source said.

This is doubly so, another source added, pointing out fiascos with regard to the World Heritage Sites of Galle Fort, where the cricket stadium has caused issues, and the changes to the entrance of the Dambulla rock temple.

With ambitious plans on the cards to announce a Seruwila-Somawathiya sacred route to the world community and to get the Peak Wilderness (comprising Sri Pada, Horton Plains and Knuckles Range) as a World Cultural and Natural Heritage Site, Sri Lanka needs to watch its step, was the message coming from many veterans in the field.

The Sunday Times understands that any sub-policy with regard to a “sensitive” location such as Sigiriya would have to be drawn up in accordance with the National Archaeology Policy, tabled in Parliament in November 2006. Whatever the Cultural Affairs Ministry does with regard to archaeological sites, it should be in consultation with the Director-General (DG) of the Archaeology Department. The DG, in turn, can always seek the guidance of his expert Advisory Committee on important issues, it is learnt.While both the DGs of the Archaeology Department and the CCF were not contactable, other archaeological and cultural officials pleaded ignorance and the fact that they were not consulted with regard to this crucial matter. The rock fortress being in a wildlife sanctuary, the Department of Wild Life Conservation (DWLC) should also have been consulted but information received by The Sunday Times indicates otherwise.

A culture official who spoke on condition of anonymity said the government has taken a policy decision to hold sound and light shows at Sigiriya.

These would be laser shows but details of how and who will be holding them are not known. “Most probably images will be created using laser beams,” the official said.

The Sunday Times understands that before any such show is held, two important impact assessments would mandatorily have to be carried out. The Department of Archaeology would have to commission a study on the dangers such a show would have on archaeological objects including the famous apsara frescoes while the Central Environmental Authority (CEA) would have to do the same for the environment taking into consideration the fauna and flora at Sigiriya.

Although the final hours of Kasyapa, guilty of patricide who made the rock fortress his magnificent palace, are linked to the elephant he was riding to meet his half-brother Moggalana in the last-ditch battle on Sigiriya plains, little thought seems to have been given by the Cultural AffairsMinistry to the herd of elephants roaming there now.

Dealing with the legal aspect of tampering with a wildlife sanctuary, Environmental Lawyer Jagath Gunawardena said that under Section 7 of the Fauna and Flora Protection Ordinance disturbing animals, their habitats and their breeding places is prohibited.

“Sound, especially in the night would definitely disturb the animals while light or even reflected light would affect them,” he said, a view echoed by both conservationists and archaeologists. In addition to elephant, deer abound in the area, while there may also be leopard, it is learnt.

What of the hornets, asked Mr. Gunawardena, explaining that not only will there be more attacks by the hornets on visitors to Sigiriya, if night shows are held they would also descend to the surrounding villages creating havoc.

Mr. Gunawardena pointed out that many bird species including the rare Shahin falcon which is known to breed only in a few places in Sri Lanka uses Sigiriya as its habitat. The blue rock thrush, a migrant bird, has also been spotted here while many water birds which frequent the wetlands in the area perch in the surrounding trees, not for feeding but for roosting.

A similar proposal in 2003 to enact scenes of Kasyapa’s time using dancers, women bathing and processions going up the rock with lamps, along with a sound and light show, was cancelled after huge protests by archaeologists, the Chief Monk of the area and people living there who banded themselves as the ‘Sigiriya Surekheme Samithiya’.

No basic facilities

By Kanchana Kumara Ariyadasa

Visitors, both local and foreign, to the rock fortress often complain of inadequate facilities and little being done about the danger posed by the hornets.

They say authorities have done little to improve even basic essentials such as toilets and clean drinking water and even the access route was in a state of neglect needing urgent repairs.

One visitor to the site asked with a reported daily income of Rs, 200,000 being earned why couldn’t the money be utilised to improve these areas before authorities think of night shows.

U. Kulawansa, a tourist guide said the problem of hornet attacks was a very real threat and pritority should be given to tackle it.

It’s a success in India and Egyp t– Minister

By Ishara Jayawardane

Claiming that the sound and light shows planned for Sigiriya were based on the success of similar shows at the Red Fort in India and the Pyramids of Giza, Egypt, Cultural Affairs Minister Mahinda Yapa Abeywardene said the project estimated to cost US$ 5 million was still in the “concept” stage.

The shows aimed at retaining the tourists at Sigiriya at least for one night, will depict its culture and history through a film lasting about 30-40 minutes. The show will be over by 9.30 p.m., the Minister said when contacted by The Sunday Times. The project is due to begin as soon as the funds are found.Meanwhile, Cultural Affairs Ministry Secretary G.L.W. Samarasinghe said that the ‘Committee to Organize Cultural Activities in Sigiriya’ consists of different officers of the ministry, the CCF who are the custodians of this World Heritage Site and the Tourism Ministry.

“We have got the approval for the concept of the project from the Cabinet. Once we develop the project we will ask the relevant agencies to get approval on the environmental, archaeological and wildlife impact. After the project is developed we will consult the CEA, the DWLC and the Department of Archaeology,” he said.

When asked whether UNESCO has been informed, Mr. Samarasinghe said that there was no need to do so.

The show will not be on the rock but in the sky and only sound and light are involved, he said, adding that the ministry would seek a sponsor to fund the project.

Ancient City of Sigiriya

25 BUR V.236-240 Ancient City of Sigiriya (Sri Lanka)

V.236     The Bureau noted the information received from the State Party in February 2001 concerning proposed plans for the expansion of a military airport within 2 km of Sigiriya. The national authorities had stated that the airport, if and when constructed, would negatively impact upon the site through:

·  Sonic vibrations which would cause damage to ancient wall plasters with paintings and inscriptions, as well as to the rock surface which is already peeling.

·  Aircraft-generated pollution that would damage the above-mentioned wall plaster and rock surface.

V.237     The Centre informed the Bureau of the findings of the Reactive Monitoring Mission to the site in March 2001, which had been urgently organised at the request of the national authorities. The mission undertaken by the Deputy Director of the Centre together with an international airport planning engineer seconded from the Aeroports de Paris under the France-UNESCO Agreement, held detailed discussions with the national and military officials concerned. ICOMOS had been invited to participate but was unable to do so due to the very short notice of the mission. However, ICOMOS-Sri Lanka was consulted during the mission.

V.238     The Bureau noted with deep concern, the findings of the UNESCO Reactive Monitoring Mission, which concluded that:

(a)      the proposed extension of the Sigiriya airport to serve as the principal base for fighter jets would undermine the character of the World Heritage site, notably due to security risks of enemy attack and air and noise pollution which will not only impact negatively on the fragile structure of the monuments and the wall paintings, but also on the flora and fauna of the natural reserves located along the flight path, and;

(b)      the technical study prepared by the airport planner recommended that the national authorities consider the expansion of the Hingurakgoda airstrip which is in better condition, hence less costly to upgrade and more appropriate for eventual use as a commercial airport.

V.239     The Bureau expressed appreciation for the rapid deployment of the Reactive Monitoring Mission to Sigiriya. While noting the national security concerns of the Government of Sri Lanka, the Bureau requested the State Party to reconsider the proposed expansion of the Sigiriya airport and to provide a report on decisions taken by the Government in this regard, by 15 September 2001, to the Secretariat for consideration by the Committee at its twenty-fifth session.

V.240     The Observer of Sri Lanka expressed his Government’s deep gratitude to the Director and Deputy Director of the World Heritage Centre, and the French Government, for swiftly responding to the request for an urgent mission to be undertaken to examine the proposed plans for expanding the military airport of Sigiriya. The Bureau was informed that the Recommendations of the UNESCO Mission have been placed before the Government for its consideration.